Rissani and Khamlia: Caravan History, Market Days and Gnawa Music Near Merzouga

The short answer: Rissani, 40 km north of Merzouga, is the market town of the Tafilalt oasis and the heir of Sijilmasa, the great medieval caravan city. Visit on a market day for the souk and its famous donkey parking, then have medfouna for lunch. Khamlia, 7 km south of Merzouga, is a village of West African heritage where Gnawa musicians welcome visitors with tea and hypnotic rhythms. Both fit into a half-day 4x4 loop.

Rissani

The heir of Sijilmasa

Founded in the 8th century, Sijilmasa was the northern terminus of the trans-Saharan trade, where gold, salt and slaves from West Africa were exchanged for goods from the Mediterranean. Its ruins lie on the edge of modern Rissani: low earth walls that need a guide's explanation to come alive.

The Alaouite connection

Rissani is the cradle of the Alaouite dynasty, which still reigns in Morocco. The mausoleum of Moulay Ali Cherif, ancestor of the dynasty, stands near the town; non-Muslims can see the courtyards from outside. Around it are fortified ksour such as Ksar Abbar, once a residence for members of the royal family.

The market

The souk is busiest on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday. Inside the arcaded market you find spices, dates of many varieties, sheep, tools and the famous "donkey parking", where traders leave their animals in rows while they shop. Bring cash and ask before photographing people.

Medfouna

The local "Berber pizza": bread stuffed with minced meat, onions, spices, egg and almonds, baked in a wood or sand-heated oven. Order it at lunch; it takes time to cook. More dishes in our Moroccan food guide.

Khamlia

Khamlia is home to families descended from people brought across the Sahara from West Africa centuries ago. They preserved Gnawa, a spiritual music of chants, the three-stringed guembri bass and iron castanets (qraqeb). Gnawa was added to the UNESCO intangible heritage lists in 2019.

• Musicians, including well-known local groups, welcome visitors in their house with mint tea and a short performance.
• There is no fixed ticket; a contribution or buying a CD supports the families.
• Visitors are often invited to join the dance at the end.

How to visit

All of this fits into the 4x4 day of our 4 day desert tour. With one night only, Rissani is a stop on the way out of the desert. See the full list of things to do in Merzouga.