Imperial Cities Tours
Chouara Tannery in Fes: How to Visit, What You See and Fair Prices
Published November 4, 2026 by Morocco Amazing Tours
The short answer: the Chouara Tannery is the largest of the three traditional tanneries in the Fes medina, where hides are still cured and dyed by hand in stone vats as they have been for centuries. You see it from the terraces of the surrounding leather shops, free of charge in exchange for listening to a short sales pitch. Go in the morning for the best light and colours, take the mint sprig you are offered for the smell, and buy only if you want to.
How the tannery works
The process has hardly changed in hundreds of years and is all done by hand:
- Softening. Hides of goats, sheep, cows and camels are soaked in white vats of water, quicklime and pigeon droppings, which loosen hair and soften the skin. This is where the smell comes from.
- Cleaning. Workers scrape the hides and wash them.
- Dyeing. In the coloured vats, hides are dyed, traditionally with natural pigments: poppy for red, indigo for blue, henna for orange, mint for green and saffron or pomegranate for yellow.
- Drying. Hides dry on the rooftops and slopes around the tannery before going to the craftsmen.
How to visit
- Find it: the tannery sits in the Blida quarter near the Seffarine square, deep in Fes el Bali. Signs say "Chouara".
- Get in: you enter through one of the leather shops that surround it and climb to the terrace. There is no ticket; the shop expects you to look at its products afterwards.
- The smell: strongest in summer and in the morning. The sprig of mint handed to you at the door helps.
- The light: morning, before about 11am, when the sun lights the vats and work is in full swing. Friday is quieter, with fewer workers.
Avoiding the classic scams
- Unofficial "guides" near Bab Boujloud may offer to show you the tannery for free, then lead you to a shop that pays them commission or ask for a large tip.
- "The tannery is closed today" is a line to redirect you elsewhere.
- A licensed guide, booked through your riad or tour company, takes you there directly.
Buying leather fairly
| Item | What to check |
|---|---|
| Babouches | Stitched, not glued, soles; soft leather that smells of leather, not chemicals |
| Bags and jackets | Even colour, lining quality, solid zips |
| Poufs | Usually sold unstuffed to pack flat; check the seams |
Prices at the tannery shops start high. Haggle calmly, compare with the shops in the souks, and walk away if the price does not suit you; the same rules as in our souks guide apply.
The tannery is part of a full day in the Fes medina, and our 8 day Morocco tour includes a guided day there before crossing the Middle Atlas to the Sahara.
Frequently asked questions
Do you have to pay to see the Chouara Tannery?
There is no ticket. You watch from a leather shop terrace and are expected to look at the shop's products; buying is not compulsory, but a small tip is polite if you buy nothing.
What is the best time to visit the Fes tanneries?
In the morning, before 11am, when the light is good and the workers are busiest.
Why do the Fes tanneries smell so bad?
The hides are softened in vats of quicklime and pigeon droppings, which release ammonia. The mint you are given at the entrance helps.
Is the Chouara Tannery still working?
Yes. It is a working tannery where hides are processed by hand every day, after a restoration completed in 2016.
See it with a private driver
Planning a trip around this? These private, driver-guided itineraries cover it — every route can be adjusted to your dates.
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